When you shop off-the-rack for a fitted skirt, you get either 1) a body-hugging spandex skirt, or 2) a wool/cotton blend that just hangs on your body.
The Enhancing Seam gives you a fitted pencil skirt without having to compromise on fabric or fit quality. We have both your hip and thigh measurements, so our skirts can be made to accommodate not just your size (like you find in a store), but also the unique curvature of your butt. Just because two women share the same hip size, does not mean their butts are curved in the same way.
That's why we make a different pattern for each customer and each style. So if you order more than one skirt, each skirt will get its own uniquely analyzed pattern. To create the pattern, our experienced pattern makers use your measurements and images to calculate the proper proportions – creating just enough of a curve to lift your butt without being overly tight. The final pattern will cut-in under your butt between 1 to 2 centimeters. While that might seem like a minor adjustment, it makes an instant difference in the curvature of your behind compared to any other pencil skirt that does not have this customization.
When it comes to length, there are two key factors: your height and your style preference.
Height: If you like the length that you see in the product image, then you simply order the skirt and send us your height and measurements. We use that information to automatically make the same length (e.g. above knees, at knees, below knees, calf, ankle) for your height.
Style preference: If you would prefer a different length from the one you see in the product image, simply include this info when you send us your measurements.
The length of a pencil skirt is an integral part of the design. A skirt that sits above your knees will have a very different look and feel from one with the same design that sits at your calves. Customize your skirt to fit your lifestyle and the occasion you will be wearing the skirt for.
Your measurements are only one factor in creating these custom patterns. The other pieces of the puzzle are: the proportions and the curvatures. For example, a 5’3” size 14 will look very different from a 5’7” size 14. (Size based on their hip measurements) And a woman with a 43-inch hip measurement could have broad hips on the side, while another woman who also has a 43-inch hip measurement could have no side hips and instead have a prominent butt.
There are quite a few areas that are adjusted, based on each person’s measurements, curvature, proportions, height and the style of the skirt. Some of the key items are the Rita Phil Enhancing Seam, back darts, front darts, waistband and length. In addition to these areas, and what truly differentiates each skirt, is the curvature used for the outline of the overall pattern. This is why we need your measurements as well as your body profile pictures. Our team of pattern makers and tailors analyze your curves in detail – something that a machine cannot do because each person’s curves are truly unique.
The waistline helps to define your proportions – it can make a Ruler body shape appear curvier, a Pear body shape appear taller or an Apple body shape's lower half to appear more balanced compared to their top half. The key is to take advantage of your body’s natural curves – since the waist is the smallest part, it should be accentuated – which gives a “home base” for all your other curves.
Most store-bought skirts have waistbands that sit right at or below your belly button. This is because this area enables the brands to get away with an "average" size: if the skirt is too big, the skirt will sit lower below your belly button, and if it’s too small, the skirt will sit at your belly button. However, this is not the most flattering placement for the waistband because it pulls attention to a wider part of your body. And if you have a belly (like most of us do), the waistband will cinch your belly at the fullest part, creating a not-so-cute nor comfortable muffin top.
Store-bought skirts have a hard time finding the natural waist because it depends on your height and proportions, which as you now know, is not the same thing as your size.
This may feel like a “higher” waistband than what you are used to, but this is the best placement for the most flattering look. And since we are all about giving you the best fit, if you would prefer a lower waistband, just note this when you send us your measurements and we can adjust the pattern accordingly.
All Rita Phil skirts are made with premium cotton blends that are structured enough to hold a precise drape -- with just enough stretch for all-day comfort. All our fabrics are meticulously curated, tested and pre-treated, giving you a skirt with as much endurance as you have – even when you go for that double macchiato!
Lining fabric is just as important as the main fabric. When you put on a Rita Phil skirt, it will literally glide on. The satin finish on our lining gives you that luxurious softness that makes every step you take feel like you’re walking the red carpet. And our broad selection includes bold statement colors to classic basics, so you can put a bit of your personality into your custom skirt, similar to how men add their lining of choice to their suit jackets (why do men get to have all the fun, right?).
Customize your skirt by mixing and matching your fabrics options. Go for a classic look by pairing your black skirt with a black or gray satin lining, or get creative and pair it with a bright yellow or pink lining. It’s these details that make each skirt unique in their own special way.
Darts are folded wedges of fabric that are taken-in on the waistline of a skirt to create the shape and drape. Every pencil skirt has darts somewhere along the waistline – some are in front, others are in the back.
There are several characteristics that differentiate Rita Phil darts: the placement (front, back or both), the number of darts, the length and the angle. As always, your combination of dart details will be unique, in order to properly fit your measurements, proportions and curvature.
Using the same example of the woman with a 43-inch hip measurement. If this woman has broad side hips with little in the butt area, her skirt would have two darts, with the length of the dart based on her height and her butt curvature (based on the image she sends us). If this woman has only slight curves on the side with a prominent butt, then her skirt would have four darts, of varying lengths. The angle of the longer darts would point slightly inward, which helps to create the illusion of a slimmer, perkier butt. The actual angle and length of each dart would also depend on her body’s curvature.
Front darts are added to the front of the skirt to provide tummy pooches with storage space. By providing extra space in this area, front darts prevent the front of the skirt from pulling and tugging. Front darts require an extra measurement, which we will contact you to take if our production team determines a need for them.
The key to a comfortable and fitted pencil skirt is the often overlooked slit. The slit, or vent, is a classic detail on every pencil skirt. It is usually in the back, and sadly, often a neglected detail. The quiet co-star in every design, the slit affects the overall comfort and style of the skirt. It allows us to create the hourglass silhouette while also maintaining ease of movement. Without a slit, it would be very difficult for you to walk and sit in a pencil skirt.
Store-bought skirts only offer a back slit design. At Rita Phil, we believe the slit should be the star of the show. With 10 different designs, you can create a unique skirt that's all your own. We offer the classic overlapping slit, accordion vent, front center slit, and many other styles that help you comfortably and stylishly wear your custom pencil skirt.